Hai Van Pass

The Hai Van Pass is a mostly two lane road that winds through the mountains on the east coast of Vietnam between Da Nang and Hue. It used to be the only way to get from the north of the country to the south and back. Now there is also a tunnel under these mountains. The longest in Vietnam.

When you reach the highest point on the road there is an old fortification once occupied by the French and then the Americans. The remnants of gun turrets are still there. The view from the top, overlooking the ocean, attracts both tourists and people from throughout Vietnam.

While I was there, a young man of college age asked me to pose for a photo with a man I assume was his grandfather or even great grandfather. I didn’t understand why until later. I believe the older man served in the Vietnam War (I don’t know which side) and his family assumed I did as well. I did not serve. I am about ten years too young. The older man shook my hand after we took our picture together and as he looked into my eyes I understood what was going on. I did not correct him. I didn’t want to spoil his moment.

I ran into a true Marine veteran on a flight from Hanoi to Da Nang a few days earlier. He is from Texas and was planning to meet up with another veteran to visit the places where they had both served. This is the second time he has been back since the end of the war.